Saturday, November 05, 2005

Plug-In Diesel Power

Have you recently began to think about how your diesel work truck could do with a bit more power? Have you ever wondered what a bit more power or torque in the right place could do for you when your carrying a heavy load or just going about your regular driving? Our simple plug and play module can easily give you an instant increase in power. You'll be excited about the possibilities for your vehicle and you'll experience the satisfaction that fitting a Diesel Power Chip can bring to your everyday driving whether at work or at play.

The Diesel Power Chip - DPChip - is available for a large range of EFI diesel trucks from the light utility of the Mercedes Sprinter to larger commercial vehicles such as the Isuzu Gigamax. By fitting a DPChip you can take full advantage of your truck's power. With an increase of up to 35% you will notice a difference in takeoff power and control. With a longer powerband you'll experience less gear changing and smoother gear changing. This improved performance leads to a general improvement in economy. In many cases up to 10% better fuel consumption can be expected when driving with a DPChip. Get the edge over your competition and get your vehicle going with a Diesel Power Chip. Add our 5 year warranty to the equation and you can see that the DPChip is your key to more power and control saving you many times it's cost over the working life of your vehicle. We pride ourselves on our world wide product support.

If you have any questions regarding the DPChip or need information or help with installation or any other matter please don't hesitate to contact us.
Postal Address: Old Hume Highway, Berrima, 2577, Australia Phone: +61 2 4877 1022 Fax: +61 2 4877 1239
Email:
info@dpchip.com
Web:
www.dpchip.com

Overview

1. DPChip is an interactive computer which exploits the full potential of modern EFI diesel engines.

2. Individual programming and re-mapping of the engine management system enables this simple to fit device to increase power by up to 25% and torque by up to 35%.

3. DPChip alters fuel, timing and air characteristics to create smooth power gains.

4. Accelerator, air mass and load, as well as other readings are accurately read by DPChip to calculate and deliver 'Real Time' alterations to the engine managements own signals with digital precision and speed.

5. More power is delivered throughout the rev range with torque (pulling power) delivered lower down and lasting much longer throughout the rev range.

6. DPChip can be further adjusted manually or via it's onboard USB port to provide optimum performance for your particular needs. If you modify your engine with extras such as turbos, intercoolers, and exhausts DPChip can be safely adjusted to suit your driving needs.

7. DPChip can provide up to 10% better fuel economy through more efficient and less gear changing.

8. DPChip is installed downstream of the ECU leaving all error detection and operational safety systems intact. DPChip cannot harm the vehicles ECU.

9. DPChip increases performance well within set tolerances thus protecting your engine.

10. DPChip is transferable between vehicles. Each DPChip model covers a large range of applications. If you sell or change vehicles simply unplug DPChip and install it in your next EFI diesel.

11. DPChip increases performance well within set tolerances thus protecting your engine.

12. DPChip has the largest range of EFI diesel tuning modules in the World.

13. DPChip is brought to you by Australia's Original Diesel specialists in the industry since 1956.

14. DPChip comes with a class leading 5 year warranty.

15. DPChip comes with 24hr/7day technical Hotline support so you have peace of mind wherever you are.

Exposing the Myths on Fuel Pump Compensators (Aneroid) added to After Market Turbo Systems and Myths of Dyno Tuning

The addition of Fuel Pump Compensators to enhance power with
After Market Turbo Systems:

There is quite a debate raging about Diesel Fuel Pump Modifications as people strive for more power than is standard from their After Market Turbo Charged 4WD! One of the main reasons driving this topic though is misinformation from diesel pump shops promising a large increase in power in addition to the gain obtained from the turbo! I have put our views below in point form.

* An Aneroid is a $1000 to $1800 addition to the existing injection pump. It is solely classified by the component manufacturer as a ‘Pollution Control Device’ fitted to factory turbo diesels.

* Contrary to this it is promoted by Diesel Injection shops as a performance device for after market turbo installations! What people don’t understand is that the same heavy fuel loadings obtainable with an Aneroid installed to a Diesel Injection Pump can also be obtained easily at no cost without it!!


* A correctly set up diesel injection system in conjunction with an After Market Turbo installation will perform nearly as well as the equivalent Factory Turbo vehicle. This is the way the After Market Turbo System has been developed and it should stay that way. The Turbo System should perform ’Stand Alone’ with no additions like large exhausts and fuel pump modifications.

* An Aneroid fitted to the injection pump of an After Market Turbo diesel makes it magically outperform a factory turbo equivalent safely. The reason for this is obvious- ‘Over fuelling above the recommended levels UNSAFELY!’


* Over fuelling outside the Aftermarket Turbo System Manufacturers Specs may mean more power but this is unsafe for the engine.

* The addition of an Aneroid to a fuel pump is not accepted by most aftermarket turbo manufacturers as it promotes over fuelling which in turn can create a huge reliability cloud over their product!


* A SERIOUS FACT! All After Market Turbo System Warranties become Void if a pump is modified outside the said After Market Manufactures specs! Just remember this if you have New Vehicle Warranty being covered by the After Market Turbo Manufacturer like DTS does. You will lose your coverage!

* The usual argument by the pump shop trying to sell an Aneroid as an addition to a turbo installation is that the engine will run smoother and produce better efficiency. As we say it has no relation to smoothness and the efficiency phrase is a catch!


* Our biggest concern is, “What specification is the Aneroid set to?” Again the usual story given to a potential customer by the diesel pump shop is that it is set to factory fuel specs. For starters there are NO factory fuel specs for After Market Turbo installations supplied by either the Original Vehicle Manufacturer or the After Market Turbo Manufacturer. Secondly the fuel spec that the diesel pump shop usually is talking about is the Genuine Factory turbo specs for fuel loadings. This is a real worry as the Factory turbo is usually a completely different combustion system with much more durable pistons to cope with heavy fuel loadings. To set up an After Market Turbo to match these fuel loadings would lead to an obvious eventual outcome! A damaged engine. Unfortunately this damage is not short term. It happens over time and usually rears its ugly head gradually.

* The only Specifications supplied by Turbo System manufacturers are Boost Pressure, Air/Fuel ratios and Exhaust Temperatures (No engine output figures are ever supplied)! These were obviously not developed with a Fuel Pump Aneroid and so could not accurately be used with one!


* At the end of the day it is a fact that if the fuel loadings are kept within the After Market Turbo Manufacturers specifications via Boost and Exhaust readings you will not only keep your warranty (which will most likely become Void if an Aneroid is fitted) you will have your diesel engine for the long term!!

This leads to the next common area of misinformation: Dyno Tuning.

* A Dyno is a device used for measuring power output at the wheels.

* They are a being pushed as a real ‘must have’ in the automotive scene of late as workshops compete for a selling edge. ‘If you don’t have one you must not know what you are doing’ is often the sales pitch used.
* The truth is that they are not a must have. The real fact is that they are required more by suburban workshops due to the fact that they have no real road test areas! And again the ‘Bells and Whistles’ must be good??
* Real on road driving experience with test gear (air/fuel ratio meter - boost gauge) attached to the 4WD is the only way to obtain a true indication of the real operating conditions. An example of this is looking at factory development of vehicles and race vehicle testing. At the end of the day it is km after km of road testing that seals the job.
* ‘Smudging’ of dyno figures. Dyno figures can be smudged to give a false impression of gains. This is noted by us in the number of 4WD diesels we have seen through our workshop with impressive dyno figures but in the true world, ‘lack lustre’ performance! It is even admitted by Dyno manufacturers.

* Again… no 4WD manufacturer or After Market Turbo manufacturer supplies rear wheel dyno figures to set things to. So question the workshop if they say they are setting the power output to a given figure. It might be well intentioned to set up a 4WD based on rear wheel output but identical 4WD diesel engines are slightly different from one to the next and even atmospheric conditions play a varying factor.

In summary it pays be educated in making decisions in life. The Diesel Experts are here to educate and have been for many years. We are not here to ‘knock’ products or services but to educate on the true facts so as you can make an informed decision! With the amount of misinformation out there on diesel and turbo charging diesels we feel obliged to inform you of the facts.

By Andrew Leimroth (Andrew is one of “The Diesel Experts” see
www.thedieselexperts.com and has personally fitted on average 2 or 3 turbos a week for the past 10 years. That’s thousands of tubos!)

Turbo Myths and Facts

Myth- This turbo is totally oil cooled as water cooling is troublesome.
Fact- There is no such thing as a small oil cooled turbo charger!! All turbo chargers are oil fed due to the fact that they all have bearings that need lubricating. Turbocharger units are either water-cooled or not! Full Stop!! Unfortunately most aftermarket turbo kit manufacturers specify non-water cooled or use the water-cooled turbo, but leave the water-cooling disconnected. All for a cost sake!! As usual, the excuses used leave the customer confused! Water cooling came about to increase the durability and life expectancy of a turbo unit. This is visible if we look at factory turbo charged 4WD’s. They nearly all use water-cooling.

Myth- The engine will run a much lower engine temperature if it is Intercooled.
Fact- A diesel engine compresses the cylinder air charge to approx. 500PSI. This is done as the air needs to be red hot so that when the diesel fuel is injected, it immediately ignites. As we can see, hot air for a diesel is not a problem. Intercoolers are generally sold with the myth of running cooler denser air and lower temperatures, whilst dramatically increasing power. The temperature part would be true only if the increased power part was left out. To get the increase in power sold with an Intercooler we now have to increase the fuel loading higher. As I always say, more fuel makes more power with the offset of more heat.
Let’s now look at the other possible problems associated with Intercooling. Over fuelling and hungry for power is the biggest one which definitely ‘cooks’ engines. The most common of all though is radiator air flow restriction. The radiator needs cool air to cool the hot engine coolant. Generally up front we have a bull-bar, driving lights, bug screens (all diverting small amounts of air flow), we then have the introduced Intercooler dumping hot air over the air conditioning condenser (most air conditioners shut off if the engine coolant starts to get too hot to try and aid in keeping cool air going to the radiator) which is dumping now extremely hot air over the poor old radiator. The radiator is now getting the leftovers and is expected to cool the power enhanced, hard working engine. This problem gets worse as the ambient air temperature increases.
So... an Intercooler added to a turbo system might not run cooler.

Myth- Particular companies don’t increase the engine output too much ,when turbo charging, so as to keep long engine life.
Fact- This comment is alarmist! It is impossible to gauge the original life of a diesel engine let alone one that is now turbo charged. If a turbo system is set up correctly, it will have no effect on engine life. Here, at Berrima Diesel, we suggest that engine life could be possibly lengthened, with the install of a correctly set up turbo system, due to the fact that it is now running with increased efficiency which can help with reducing soot build up in engine oil and around piston rings etc! We see vehicles that we turbo charged many years ago coming back with 500,000+ km on the engine and no sign of it wearing out. Diesels last if correctly maintained!



Myth- You must fit a Fuel pump aneroid (fuel compensator) when you fit a turbo as it will run better and give you more power.
Fact- For starters the addition of an aneroid to your injection pump will cost upwards of $1000-$1800 on top of a turbo system. It is specifically designed as a Pollution Control Device and is fitted only to factory turbo diesels. Unfortunately in aftermarket turbo fitment, an aneroid can be used as a device to mask over fuelling and over powering the engine. I find it most amusing when I hear comments from ‘Diesel Pump Shops’ like:- ‘If it runs too lean it will burn holes through the pistons so it must be fuelled up well. With an aneroid we can fuel it up!’ This is only technically possible with a Petrol engine!!!
REMEMBER THIS DIESEL SAYING- ‘Rich is Hot (more Fuel)….Lean is Cool (less Fuel)!!

Myth- Some companies promote large, low boost, cool running turbo units!!!
Fact- It‘s simple physics. Pressure and volume are relative to each other. A turbo running higher boost gets higher volumes of air to an engine than the one running lower boost. The higher the boost the more air volume! A turbo is only an air supply device. Boost pressures used in turbo charging are relatively low and don’t generate much heat if any. If we kept compressing the air to a couple of hundred PSI though, air would soon heat up. It still stands that fuel makes the heat in the equation!! Loads of fuel means loads of heat. A correctly matched turbo spins up fast so as to keep a nice lean mixture down low and to get a torque increase early in the rev range (a lean mixture is cool and clean in a diesel!!). As we know, diesel engines produce maximum torque at low engine revs so we need a turbo to be at maximum boost at those low engine revs. What's happened now to the ‘large low revving turbo‘? Not much, until the engine revs get up high. Too late for the boost to arrive at high revs! In fact if the boost is kept low and the turbo spins up slowly, the fuel and air mixture can be quite rich in the low to mid working range of the engine. ‘Rich means heat in a diesel‘. That’s why using a large ‘cool’ turbo charger is a fallacy! With the high revving diesels of today, a turbo needs to boost early and hold the boost through the large rev range. The variation in a 4WD diesel rev range can be 4000RPM between idle and redline.

Myth- Use the old manifold and just adapt the turbo to it.
Fact- This is a real worry. The original exhaust manifold is not designed to have the weight of a turbo unit swinging off it or the increased backpressure that a turbo creates in the system. Having a specifically designed new exhaust manifold for the turbo to bolt to is only common sense. A specific turbo exhaust manifold is internally split for cylinders 1, 2, 3 from 4, 5, and 6. This is specific for exhaust flow and increased low speed torque.

Myth- The turbo must be mounted high up in the engine bay so as not to crack in water.
Fact- High mounting in certain engine bays can lead to excessive engine bay temperature. We have seen some funny cases! The most common is systems using a high mount position, for the turbo, in the Nissan Patrol. We have seen some melted glove boxes, cooked batteries and even paint damage to bonnets. As far as water crossings cracking turbo housings go, I don’t know who would drive at full speed long enough to get the turbo orange hot and then plough into a river deep enough to fill the engine bay. You can imagine the picture let alone the splash! The castings are strong enough to withstand splashing and possible immersion, whilst hot, under most conditions.

Myth-You need a high flow foam filter when turbo charging.
Fact- If you don’t know our stance on this subject just ask! Ask the turbo reconditioning industry how much foam they find behind compressor wheels in turbo chargers when they are being rebuilt!

Myth- The problem is they use a petrol turbo unit.
Fact- No such thing. A turbo is a turbo. Turbo units are designed on exhaust flow not the fuel used!

by Andrew Leimroth

Andrew is one of the Diesel Experts - see http://www.thedieselexperts.com

‘The Sulphur Debate’

The Sulphur debate seems to be the ‘Scape-Goat’ of this century! Since the start of 2003 there has been an epidemic of leaking diesel pumps most prevalent in 4WD’s and small commercial diesels. It is only happening in these vehicles with a ‘rotary’ pump fitted, due to the fact that a ‘rotary’ pump is running and lubricated solely by the diesel fuel whilst the ‘in-line’ style pump, found mainly on earlier 4WD diesels and in heavier commercials, is running mainly with engine oil lubrication. Of course we have been shouting loud about the problem for a while (through the 4WD magazines and our ‘tech sheets’ whilst the Diesel Associations are keeping their pockets warm.
Anyway, I’d just like to quickly run through this terribly misleading DIESEL FUEL debate and give you some clarifications from the Pro’s...Berrima Diesel! You’ve probably been reading about ‘HORROR STORIES’ (like up in Queensland) of the removing or reducing of Sulphur in Diesel fuel. These stories would lead one to believe that pump damage will occur and seals will leak. It is being heavily published as being so in leading 4WD publications, TV and even by ‘so-called’ Diesel Industry Associations!!
THIS IS ALL WRONG and misleading!!!!!! Berrima Diesel have been saying from Day 1 that if it leaves the nozzle as International and Australian standards dictate (and I wish the Federal Government would Prosecute if it wasn‘t), the fuel will have all the characteristics that it was intended to have. Robert Bosch didn’t have these standards to assure him when he built the first diesel fuel system for Rudolf Diesel. He was using vegetable oil (peanut oil was one of them!) and it worked for him. Let’s not forget that there never really was diesel fuel then as there is now. Diesels then and today will run on light oil (if a tad smoky!) without refining.
One of the ‘stories’ being told about removing the Sulphur is that it reduces the lubricating qualities of Diesel fuel. This is true BUT, as we have always said, it will still have to pass lubricating standards before being labelled Diesel. Even if it needs lubricants adding (All the Oil Companies backs this up!)!! Diesel is barely a lubricant at the best of times (WD40 rings a bell) and if it is watered down with other industry ‘by-products’ it qualities are reduced even further!
The other ‘stories’ flying around about pump seals leaking is another bit of a con! Even the Oil Companies have a little excuse for it but I don’t fully believe that! Yes, fuel composition does have an effect on the seals but we have new and old 4WD rotary pumps leaking and not all the seals in the pump leak. These O-ring type seals have to cope with a lot of adulterated diesel. Adulterated diesel can contain (and we have seen it contain!!) some highly aggressive (to injection components and seals) substances. This combined with pump fuel operating temperatures running higher than manufacturers could believe (we‘ve tested fuel temps in hot weather up over 80‘C coming out of the pump!! Pump manufacturers say to stop testing pump delivery on the Test Bench once fuel temp. goes much over 65‘C) leads to (usually the thing leaking) the top cover seal contracting or expanding, twisting and then leaking. As far as the stories of front seals filling sumps with fuel and dirt being sucked in by others is sheer that ’scare tactics. ‘Certain questionable Diesel Industry bodies saying that ‘once the seals are replaced with new ones it won’t happen again’ is misleading! In fact we dare the ‘Diesel Repair Industry’ to come clean and stop saying pumps need complete rebuilding, for 90% of the time it is only a number of top cover seals that need replacing! With the fuel samples reported by Berrima Diesel, anything can happen in the future with leaks! So make sure that if they are being replaced that they are being replaced with GENUINE seals.
Diesel 4WD owners and potential buyers (if they are still even interested in buying a diesel 4WD), shouldn’t read too deeply into the problem, keep their fuel receipts and hammer their Fuel supplier and local Federal Member about he problem!! Barbara has been doing this for a while and has actually, although they would never recognise it (a member of the public bringing it to their attention), achieved discussion and proposals happening in Federal Parliament as we speak.
Most Oil Companies have officially announced that they are doing a back-flip on the Sulphur debate. They have finally come clean on the fact that sulphur reduction IS NOT causing the leaks but instead it is the imbalance in aromatics in fuel brought on by the reduction of the sulphur. I wonder what next will be blamed.
We still say a mixture of factors; incorrectly balanced diesel, mixtures of adulterated illegal fuel and/or old age!!!’ At the end of the day, if you notice that you have a leaking pump, don’t panic and don’t worry about getting it towed home from Birdsville. Just get it fixed as soon as you can.

see http://www.berrimadiesel.com.au for more information on diesel fuel

Turbocharging

By Andrew Leimroth (Andrew is one of “The Diesel Experts” see www.thedieselexperts.com and has personally fitted on average 2 or 3 turbos a week for the past 10 years. That’s thousands of tubos!)

A turbocharger is engineered to match the specific requirements of the engine it is fitted to. Each is dependent on the other to maintain optimum performance. Don't think of the turbo as a bolt-on accessory, rather as an integral part of the engine. The turbos requirements are similar to the engines. It is, therefore, essential that scheduled servicing, using good quality oils and parts, is central to caring for your turbo.

In many instances vehicles are misdiagnosed as having a turbo problem, when actually the turbo is not at fault. Incorrect fault finding is often caused by a lack of product knowledge. Many contributory items around the engine bay can trick the unsuspecting into believing the turbo is the culprit, when in fact it is not. Unfortunately, if the real problem is not diagnosed before a replacement turbocharger is fitted, the problem still exists!

We have a saying here which goes, "Turbos don't die. They’re killed". A turbo can be killed in many ways, for example;

Foreign object damage results in either the air intake "compressor wheel" or exhaust "turbine" wheel being damaged. The former is often caused by someone accidentally leaving a nut or other foreign body in the air induction hoses. Please be extremely careful if going to an aftermarket air-filter. Genuine is bests there! In the latter case, this may be caused by part of an engine component, such as a piece of valve, exiting the engine in rather a hurry! In both cases it results in severe turbocharger damage instantly.

Turbochargers are simple in operation, but manufactured to precise tolerances as fine as 1/ 1,000,000 of an inch. The turbo unit manufacturers balance and test every single turbocharger many times, including final assembly. The balancing methods and procedures are unique. Without them, no turbocharger can be balanced to the ultra-fine tolerances required for today’s high speed turbos. It is now common for turbochargers to spin up to 150,000 rpm +.
That’s approximately 35 times faster than most diesel engines rev at the red line! Sophisticated machinery and highly trained factory staff ensure that the highest standards are always maintained.

Useful tips when driving any turbocharged engine, whether it be petrol or diesel, are to always allow the engine to warm-up fully, until the water temperature gauge reaches normal, before full throttle is used. Try to plan the end of your journey sympathetically. Don’t use full throttle or allow the engine to labour during the last few miles. This will prevent excessive heat build-up within the turbo when the engine is turned off. Also, when coming to a standstill, try to leave the engine idling for a few extra seconds to allow the heat to decrease. No need for a timer though, just undo your seat belt first and then turn off the engine. Never rev the engine just as the ignition is turned off. Remember the turbo spins at a far greater speed then the engine, but is lubricated with engine oil. Once the engine stops the oil supply ceases within a few seconds. In reality, none of the above traits will cause a turbocharger to fail immediately, but repeatedly over a long period, they could reduce the life of your turbocharger.

What is 'Boost'?
Boost is a term used to describe the increase in pressure, provided by the turbocharger, to the volume of air, entering the engine. This pressure is expressed in a number of different units, (BAR, ATM, Kpa, P.S.I.), but they all mean the same thing. For purposes of approximate comparison; 1 BAR = 1 ATM = 100 Kpa 14.7P.S.1. When the pressure of the engine's inlet air is increased, the engine's power output is increased. This pressure increase is called 'boost'.

How does fitting a Dynamic Turbo system affect the power of my vehicle?
Modern 4WD diesel engines, typically produce peak torque (pulling power), at around 2,000-2,500 R.P.M. and peak horsepower at around 3,500-4,000 R.P.M. Turbo boost starts at approximately 750 R.P.M. and rises progressively to its maximum pressure of approx. 70 Kpa (10 P.S.I.) by approx. 2,000 R.P.M. At this point, the percentage torque increase of a correctly tuned installation is approx. 40%, at the wheels. This continues to the peak horsepower point of 3,500-4,000 R.P.M. At no point is it ever any less than standard e.g. at 1500 R.P.M. it is at least 25% greater than the standard vehicle at the same R.P.M.

Can I fit a Dynamic Turbo system myself and, if not, how long and what is the cost of having it fitted for me?
While most competent mechanics could probably fit a Dynamic Turbo system, tuning requires specialised knowledge. The lack of this knowledge could have serious consequences. In addition, warranty can only be provided on Dynamic Turbo systems which are installed by authorised facilities.
The cost of having the installation performed by a professional is only about 10% of the total purchase price. This provides a warranted, correctly tuned, "no hassle" installation for the customer. All diesel vehicle installation can be performed in one day.

What creates the most heat? Fuel or turbo boost?
Diesels do not need an air control (eg. manifold butterfly valve. The only ones requiring a butterfly are vacuum operated governor pumps) to operate. The more air the better. Add too much fuel to the equation and the exhaust gas temperature rises rapidly.

What type of oil and how often should it be changed?
Turbos must have good quality oil. Use either a mineral, semi or fully-synthetic engine oil. “The Diesel Experts” recommend using name brand oils. Change oil at intervals recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

How long does a turbo last?
On average, as long as the engine or longer with regular engine servicing and good quality engine oil.

What is a ‘dump’ valve or ‘blow-off’ valve?
A valve which relieves boost-pressure between the compressor outlet and engine as the throttle is closed (Only required on throttle valve controlled diesels which are rarely seen these days). These are commonly fitted to hotted up petrol cars so it sounds good changing gears among other reasons!

Can I fit a turbo from another 4WD?
No, virtually all turbocharger are different inside, even if they appear similar on the outside. The turbo model e.g. Mitsubishi TD04 is only the model, not the exact specification.

Should I leave my engine ‘ticking over’ before it is turned off?
Not for normal every day driving, but still worthwhile if the engine has been under load or raced before being turned off e.g. Towing a caravan or after climbing a long incline.

Why is it important to balance a turbocharger?
Without highly accurate balancing, vibration will create a whining noise, reduce turbo bearing life and reduce turbo efficiency.

How much boost does my turbo produce?
Correctly set up diesel 4WD turbochargers run up to between 10 PSI to12 PSI with Intercooler turbocharged engines running upwards of 13PSI.

How many psi in one bar?
14.7 psi = 1 bar.

Are all actuators the same?
No, each has a different opening pressure and rate.

Oil in the turbo inlet pipe - Should I be concerned?
A small amount of oil usually exists, drawn in from the engine's crankcase breather system. High engine wear will increase the amount of oil found, and will require further engine tests (not turbo).

Should a turbo be serviced?
No specific turbo servicing is required, but regular quality engine servicing is needed to reduce the chance of turbocharger problems.

What is a water-cooled turbo?
The central part of the turbo, housing the bearings, is surrounded by a water jacket through which the engine's water coolant is passed. This water continues to circulate after the engine is turned off, cooling the turbo, and preventing heat soak.

Do I need to up grade my exhaust?
Generally not. Our systems are designed to run utilising as much genuine component as possible. Some systems on the market promote exhaust change as it is required by that particular turbo. Doing so usually picks up more noise than performance.

How noisy should a turbo be?
Only an unbalanced, worn out or damaged turbo will produce any significant turbo noise.

What is an intercooler?
A special type of radiator which cools air before it enters the engine. As a turbo compresses air, the air heats up. Power can be increased if the air entering the engine is cooler. The cooler air is more dense meaning that more fuel can be injected for more power.

Will my vehicle run ‘cooler’ with an intercooler?
Theoretically, but not always the case! We commonly find intercooled 4WD vehicles running hot due to over-fuelling and radiator restriction. Restriction meaning that hot air passes out of the Intercooler over the air conditioning condenser and finally the radiator. The poor old radiator is left with scraps of extremely hot air and then is expected to cool the engine. We don’t advise fitting them as hot Australian conditions can often be the catalyst for engine heat problems.

What will happen to my fuel consumption?
More power generally means more fuel. With a diesel turbo system, fuel consumption stays generally the same and can become better under towing conditions.

In Conclusion.
If it becomes necessary to seek advice about a turbocharger or a turbo related problem, always rely on a professional. Berrima Diesel, together with DTS turbochargers, are Australia’s leading turbo specialist, and are acknowledged as one of the most experienced turbo installation companies in the world. We can advise customers with turbocharged 4WD’s on a wide variety of questions and issues relating to owning and running a turbo car.

It cannot be stressed too much how important it is, when purchasing turbocharger system, always to choose the top brand name. Consider this. As with so many things in life, quality costs, and there are sometimes cheaper turbos for sale. Without the safeguard of using a quality turbocharger, you run a serious risk that your short-term saving may turn out to be a long-term nightmare.

‘Over Weight’ ‘Over Heating’

Radiators and Air flow:

* Consider a larger radiator. Some Factory radiators are a 2 core and can be increased to a 3 core radiator.
* Please… resist fly screens where possible.
* Consider the size and positioning of driving lights, winch, number plates and particularly bull bar air flow.
* Check to make sure air conditioning condenser fins are clean!!
* If an Intercooler is mounted in front this can add considerably to hot air flow over the radiator and restricting air flow to the radiator.
* Consider installing a few small bonnet vents on the left and right of the rear region of the bonnet. This has proven to be a popular addition and has huge effects on under bonnet temps!! Considering how tight most engine bays are after a few accessories are added, this venting addition can reduce heat stress on a variety of products under the bonnet.

Engine set-up:

* Over fuelling can be a big cause of high combustion temperatures.
* Make sure the fuel injection system has been given the ‘once over’.
* If the vehicle is fitted with a turbo or super charger, over fuelling may be the cause. It is very easy to over fuel a diesel once plenty of air is available as possibly no smoke under load may be visible. Visible smoke under load can be a warning of over fuelling!

Post Number Two ;) Well here's some information on Diesels to start with.

‘Correct Diesel Tuning’

Diesel tuning is more important than we think. Lets get down to the basics.Diesel is distilled crude oil (Distillate). Unlike what most ‘Hollywood’ movies promote of a diesel truck hitting a wall and exploding like a small nuclear bomb, oil does not readily ignite, particularly a liquid form. If we atomise it though, it will burn readily. The diesel principle relies on air being compressed to approx. 500PSI. This in turn heats the air, turning it into the igniter (diesels don't have igniters such as spark plugs). Heard of a glow plug? Glow plug only glow on cold start-up to help warm up the air in the combustion chamber. A bit like when you are pumping up a push bike tyre, the pump gets warm.

Ok, so you now have very hot air and you inject diesel in through an atomising injector. As soon as the diesel leaves the injector and enters the extremely hot air the diesel ignites and combustion begins. Put a poor atomising injector in the picture and you have a different story. Because it is not atomising the diesel enough, the fuel volume burns erratically and slowly as the flame burns through the large droplets of oily fuel. If you were to light up a drum of oil, you would see a similar effect of slow burning and smoke. You can imagine that by now the timing of the combustion process is also upset. Add lower injector pressure than normal, due to age, and you have the timing of the fuel ignition point changing even more (injector opening too early). The injectors doing this alone can make a diesel smoky and sluggish. On a cold morning, the combustion is even further retarded due to cold cylinders and cool combustion and you also get hard starting.This scenario changes completely with correctly set up injectors. Remember the drum of oil? Well, if you could fill the drum with a misty vapour of oil and light it up, you would not only get a large bang but it would be over within a flash. A good injector sprays fuel out as a mist and the fuel burns rapidly and relatively clean as the droplets are so small that they burn with a puff! A correctly set injector pressure also means the fuel is being injected at the correct time.
Now, the injectors are perfect but the injection pump could be slightly out of tune. Timing has to be set. If it is too early the vehicle can smoke and become quite ‘diesel noisy’ and if it is too late, the vehicle can feel sluggish. Imagine the spray of fuel as a fist about to hit the piston. If it is hit too far before top dead centre it would not only hurt your fist and the piston but it would make a louder than normal bang as the two things hit head on. If the piston had gone past top dead centre and was hit, the force of the hit would be going down with the piston so you would have too littleimpact on it. So you can see why timing is critical for maximum hit effect! Other things need to be checked like the fuel volume delivered by the pump. Too much is power but with smoke, too little is low power with absolutely NO smoke and just right is in the middle of smoke and no smoke! There are a few more complex settings on the pump that are checked and adjusted but these are the main ones.

Well, there are 6 injectors supplying fuel to the engine (Imagining it being a 6 cylinder diesel). Looks like it has no problems getting fuel, but what about the important part that we forgot about, AIR? Well...it has to draw the air through a maze. Filter, pipes, inlet manifold and a tiny inlet valve. This has to happen in a split second and the piston going down has to do all the sucking. That’s the governing part of a diesel engines performance. Remember more fuel for more power is just more smoke! So we have to do something about the air to keep things clean. This is where a Turbo system comes into its’ own with Diesel engines. With a huge amount of air now available due to the turbo supplying air right to the inlet valve, the piston only has to suck air from there. Lets not forget that 1 cylinder has a suction stroke many times a second, so these fallacies of air being forced into the engine and blowing heads off with a turbo are only that! Now that we have more air, the fuel system can be set up according for more power. [WARNING- This is where the whole equation can come adrift with overheating etc. Things have to be set up by a professional and a professional that knows his JOB!] One last note; the diesel system that is on all 4WD diesels was designed to run on a fuel with certain burning characteristics. We don't seem to be getting fuel in Australia meeting all these requirements. We have new vehicles smoking that obviously are not designed to smoke when running on real diesel. So when you are setting up a fuel injection system for tuning, you have to take the burning characteristics of this poor diesel into consideration. Try to get your fuel from a reputable and 'known brand' garage and keep your receipts. If you have problems, you then have as much 'come-back' on the fuel garage as you have with a faulty product from a shop.

Safe driving,
Byron


Footnote: The modern diesel has come a long way from its beginnings!! Well…so we are all lead to believe!! That’s where it all stops. In fact about the only thing that could compare is reinventing the round wheel!! That’s right. Nothing has really changed. A diesel still needs fuel and air. Even though we now have trendy things like ‘Common-rail High Pressure Injection and Electronics controlling everything, it is still the same old principle. The only major change appears to be the repair costs… as usual. Most ‘high tech’ injectors now cost over $2000 each and are ‘throw away’. Most Injector pumps are becoming ‘throw away’ at around $6500. Where will it end??

visit http://www.thedieselexperts.com for more diesel information.

Welcome to the Diesel Blog

Well Hi!!
This is the first post on the Diesel Blog. I'm Byron Moore and I hope to be able to bring you lots of information and insights into the world of Diesel Automotive Technology, 4 Wheel Drive, Truck and other diesel engine matters. I hope you'll find something of value here and even make some contributions yourself.
Well, I'll post this and see how it goes. Don't be shy to post....I know I wont be ;)
happy blogging,
Byron